L'Estuaire
de la Gironde
The Gironde estuary
is formed by the merging of the rivers Dordogne and Garonne near Blaye
just north of Bordeaux and continues from their confluence at the Bec
d'Ambes, to where it meets the Atlantic ocean at an imaginary line
drawn from the Point de Grave on the Medoc to Pointe de Suzac at Royan.
Its entry into the Atlantic is also marked by the lighthouse the Phare
de Courdouan, boat trips to and around that wonderful lighthouse run
from Meschers and Royan. Some 150km long and up to 11km wide it is the
largest estuary in Europe!
There is a regular
roll on roll off ferry service from Royan over to the Medoc on the
other side and as from 2005 there is a summer passenger boat which
makes one or two, depending on the season, return trips from the nature
reserve at Vitrezay to Pauillac on the opposite bank. These are
sometimes linked with a coach pick up on the other Medoc side and a
visit to a famous wine chateau and an optional meal (telephone the
Vitrezay nature reserve 05.46.49.89.89 English spoken).
The estuary provides
a subtle mixture of land and water and in rythym with the tides, the
seasons and the weather it offers a huge variety of countryside. It has
been occupied and exploited by man for thousands of years and has for
centuries been the subject of intense maritime activity with the
transport of wine,cognac, porcelain before becoming an access to
Bordeaux for container ships, cruise liners and more recently wings for
the A380 Airbus which you may well see during your stay.
ESTUARY PARK
- The newly
opened Parc de l'Estuaire (Estuary
Park) at St Georges de Didonne, is the northern estuary reserve and
information park and complements its southern sister nature park at
Vitrezay. It provides wonderful views of the estuary
near Royan, especially from the 60 metre high observation tower, as
well as walks and
cycle paths and the opportunity to learn more about the estuary and to
sample and buy some of the local produce. The exhibition centre there
is equipped with many interactive bornes to please young and old alike
and allows you to take a Jules Verne type visit to the heart of the
estuary. There is also a restaurant and snack bars with terraces
overlooking the estuary and a multimedia orientation table.
Between Royan and Meschers the estuary is lined with superb sandy
beaches, both lifeguard protected which of course tend to be busier and
more secluded sandy coves. Parking is plentiful and free to provide
easy access on foot to the beaches themselves.
MESCHERS
- The town of
Meschers is very lively with shops, restaurants, markets including
evening markets with entertainment in the season. The port area is very
attractive again with plenty of restaurants and boat trips both on the
estuary and out to Courdouan lighthouse. There are delightful walks
along the cliff tops and you can visit the two sites of troglodyte cave
dwellings Regulus and Matata. The caves dug out of the
soft limestone have had many uses over the years, a place of refuge for
sailors and also for protestants persecuted during the wars of
religion. Another more sinister story is that fires were lit on the
cliff top during storms in order to lure in unsuspecting ships which
were then wrecked on the rocks below enabling their cargo to be looted.
TALMONT
- Just the other
side of the bay from Meschers is Talmont, this is a beautiful little
village with its church of Ste Radegonde perched out on a rocky outcrop
and is well known throughout the world. You can explore the village on
foot, full of artists and craftsmen, the narrow streets and alleys are
ablaze with flowers especially hollyhocks which grow in abundance
throughout the village. Many events and entertainments take place there
throughout the season.
'CARRELETS'
- Talmont is
also one of the many places on the estuary where you can get a close up
look at the carrelets the
traditional fishing cabins with their suspended nets. You can often see
fishermen using the smaller hand held version in the bay at Talmont.
Along the estuary the great storm in December 1999 destroyed hundreds
of them but happily there are still plenty left and many damaged or
destroyed ones have been repaired or replaced.
BARZAN -
As with much of
the estuary there are many, many marked walks and cycle tracks. Barzan
Plage is linked to Talmont by a very easy, attractive cliff top walk
and another cliff top walk leaves the parking in the bay in the
opposite direction towards Les Monards.
LE FA (BARZAN)
- This gallo
roman archeological site will be in the future a major place of
interest and site to visit on the estuary with visitor centre etc. On
an area of almost one hundred hectares there are the remains of a
ancient city comparable in size to that of Saintes or Bordeaux and
these are slowly being excavated. People farming that land never
realised that beneath the tractor wheels lay thermal baths, a
sanctuary,
a public square, houses, streets and even an amphitheatre. They
realised even less that it operated as a major port when the level of
the Gironde was much higher than it is today.
LES
MONARDS - Another small port
with a very popular auberge restaurant and also a smaller bar
restaurant both serving local dishes.
ST
SEURIN D'UZET - Our local village and again another
port mainly local fishing boats. There is a mini market here and in
2006 the bar restaurant is due to re-open together with its caviar
museum. In the 1920's St Seurin was reknowned throughout france for
the production of caviar.The story is that a Russian aristocrat
was visiting St Seurin and she saw local fisherman who had landed their
catch of sturgeon cut open the females to clean the fish and promptly
threw the eggs to feed the ducks. She shouted to them 'messieurs you
can't do that, it is a crime', and she told them that she would send
someone to show them how to prepare the caviar. Having fled the Russian
revolution she went to live in Paris and married a man named Scott who
was a former bodyguard to the Czar and was also experienced in the
process of making caviar. As promised she sent him to St Seurin to show
the local fishermen how to produce a quality product and it became the
most prized and sought after caviar in France. the boom was relatively
short lived and due to overfishing stocks of sturgeon declined in the
estuary and sturgeon fishing has been banned for a number of
years.
L'ECHAILLER
- This our local hamlet and provides
several excellent viewpoints of the estuary, of course you would not
need to stray further than the balcony terrace to enjoy the view! A
walk will take you down a path through the cliffs and then along the marais to port at Mortagne, you
can easily see all the way along the estuary from Meschers how the
water level has changed over the years shown by the cliff which are now
up to 400 metres from the waters edge. There
is much wildlife in the area and apart from the huge array of birds to
delight bird watching enthusiasts, the estuary being a major route for
migratory birds, there are apart from the expected
foxes, badgers etc, you could easily see several varieties of deer and sanglier (wild boar). In fact we
regularly see wild boar in the fields adjoining the property,
especially during the autumn,winter and spring and even more so if the
fields next to the house have been planted with maize. One of our
neighbours installed a storks nest on his property 3 years ago and
although it has received a lot of interest from passing storks in the
spring they have yet to make their home there, however we are hopeful
that 2006 will be the first year it will be occupied and if so the view
of the nesting storks from our balcony will be unforgettable. The moulin (mill) in Echailler which
is now a house was, like the chateau in St Seurin, occupied by the
Germans during the 2nd World War as it gave a superb defensive view of
the estuary. Ironically it is still occupied by Germans!!
MORTAGNE
SUR GIRONDE - With its picturesque port below and the
town with shops, P.O., tourist office etc above Mortagne is a pleasant
little town. The port area is very lively in the season with numerous
events, themed shows and fetes together with brocantes etc and of course has
several bars and restaurants. There is also the opportunity for horse
riding and hiring kayaks and boats. The Hermitage is also well worth a
visit.Apart from its pleasure port aspect Mortagne is a busy fishing
port as fishing on the estuary is still a very intense activity linked
both to the seasons and to the migration of the fish population.
Previously the caviar from the migrating sturgeon and now in winter la pibelle or civale which are elvers or baby
eels and these are caught along the edges of the water with a very
special type of fishing boat with nets on either side of the front of
the boat. In spring it is the lamproies
which looks like an eel but is in fact a fish with pointed teeth
and from May to July it is the turn of the maigre which is fished from a boat
called a yole and is much sought after because of the quality of its
meat. Many of the restaurants feature these fish on their menus as and
when they are in season.
PORT
MAUBERT - Another small port with an excellent
restaurant and a marked walk down to the edge of the estuary with
orientation table. Between Mortagne and Port Maubert on the low road
which hugs the estuary there are several storks nests, all of which are
occupied from spring, giving a superb and priveliged view of nesting
storks at close quarters.
VITREZAY
- Fully opened for the first time in 2005
the nature reserve at Vitrezay makes for a marvellous day out. Paths
lead out into the marais through
the wetlands with observation hides. There is also an exhibition centre
and throughout the season various different entertainments and special
events are laid on. there is a restaurant-bar with a panoramic view of
the estuary, you can take a boat trip over ot Pauillac on the other
side of the Gironde and these are often linked up with a coach pick up
and visit to a famous wine chateau and optional meal. There is the
opportunity to try your hand at a number of activities including
fishing in various forms, canoeing , sailing or going out in a sea
kayak. trips out in the daytime and evening trips on a gabare and you can even rent a
genuine carrelet by the hour, day
or night! If you need to telephone Vitrezay for further information
English is spoken (05.46.49.89.99).
The Gironde as we have said continues on down to the Bec d'Ambès
and with its ever changing landscape there is something of interest
throughout its course of which this is just a taster from the area
around our home.